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Food and Drinks : The stale chic of Osteria Stecca

MARINA O'LOUGHLIN Metro 30.06.2008 13:50

Osteria Stecca

Osteria Stecca

There are some restaurants that remain resolutely critic-proof. You can knock Nobu till you're purple in the face, lay into San Lorenzo, carp about Asia de Cuba or bitch about Cipriani; none of it will make the blindest bit of difference.

Some of it is explained by a love of seeing and being seen. Often it's because the critical fraternity are, by definition, pickier than yer average punter. Sometimes I have a violent urge to grab customers piling into the likes of Bella Pasta or Prezzo and point them towards somewhere of real value and quality. Even in London, the two are not mutually incompatible. This is not condescension, honest, more like evangelism.

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