Koh Phayam, a quiet spot on Thailand's Andaman coast

There are two main beaches, Aow Khao-Kwai, a sheltered crescent on the north of the island, and Aow Yai, on the west coast, the busier and more pleasant of the two. Aow Yai has bigger surf and a direct sunset view backed by the silhouette of distant Myanmar. There are no cars, so best to rent a scooter for $8 a day to tool around the island and through the cashew and rubber orchards. Relax on the beach, or take guided snorkeling and fishing trips that sail around the island. Scuba divers can hitch an overnight trip to the Surin Islands down the coast with world-class coral. Mr. Gao organizes trips. (http://mr-gao-phayam.com/) Another popular pastime is a beachside Thai massage. Most of the bungalow style hotels and bars double as massage stations. Don't pay more than $12 for an hour of bliss.

Where to eat: For a taste of what local fishermen eat, go to Nui's restaurant, a two-minute walk south from the pier in the main village. There's no English sign, but ask around. Nui is an amiable and well-known local woman who makes a delicious, brothy noodle soup and the best spicy squid on the island. Her sweet iced coffee and tea are a refreshing midday drink. (No phone). The island's two beaches and main town are sprinkled with bars and restaurants specializing in freshly caught seafood.


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